Sadly, such excursions are no longer possible in many of Chernobyl’s habitats, which are now strewn with landmines placed by both Russian and Ukrainian forces. Vyshnevskiy tells me of a firefighter tackling a forest fire caused by a downed Russian drone who stepped on a mine. His remains were found 70 metres away. He knows of three wild horses killed the same way, but the size of the zone means most animal casualties will go unnoticed.
During my travels, minefields and military checkpoints became familiar. Areas that were once tourist attractions or public buildings are now highly classified sites. This militarisation has squeezed scientists out – at one point, there would have been hundreds here, but during my visit, we all fit around the same table while Vyshnevskiy cooks dinner.



Radioactive and a minefield - what else can we add?