• 3 Posts
  • 66 Comments
Joined 2 years ago
cake
Cake day: June 30th, 2023

help-circle

  • based on binging Ave back before he for political

    Yeah, that’s been a disappointment to me. There are other channels that test tools like Project Farm, but he primarily tests out of the box performance, which is important, but I’d rather have a tool with 5% less performance but 2x the service life. Big Clive does teardowns of electronics, and I’m sure there are others, too.

    I think what one could do, at the very least, is some kind of federated materials/parts database. If a tool uses an ABS casing and unbranded battery cells, you know it’s not as good as something made of fiberglass reinforced nylon that has Samsung cells, and it doesn’t leave room for gaming the system beyond selectively improving parts that have been called out as low quality, which is effectively as good a response as we could hope for. It doesn’t even necessarily require expertise from people who would contribute. I’m imagining something that works like Street Complete for collecting inputs to OpenStreetMap.


  • I think about this a lot. When a company updates a design, they often don’t have “release notes” on what actually changed. Sometimes they swap out components for cheaper stuff, which they won’t tell you. Sometimes they fix some stuff that was bad from the original design, which they often won’t tell you. The only time they tell you about updates is if they are just making something presumably better, but that also doesn’t let you know for sure if parts will be compatible.

    Some brands keep the same product name, but make lots of changes, and some brands make essentially the same product, but change the name (e.g., vitamix 5200). Sometimes model numbers help, but they don’t always show you the model numbers, and oftentimes retailers have their own model number that you’d have no clue is the same. I often end up having to rely on stuff like the wattage where if it changes, you know something changed.

    I have a tool (milwaukee circular saw) that started getting an intermittent failure. When doing some reading to try to fix it, I found the schematic and parts list for replacement parts (Milwaukee is good about this). I then found the same list for the newest Milwaukee circular saw (i don’t remember if it was the same model number or just n+1). The only replacement part that was different between them was the switch that sits behind the trigger. Enough people must have had the same exact issue that I did that they changed parts, but you would never see that information somewhere. The issue ended up being that the switch design created arcing that fouled up the contact surfaces, so you could technically just take it apart periodically to clean them, but that was a pain, so I just sent it in to have it fixed with the new part since it was under warrantee.






  • Yeah, i was going to say, unless you are talking about a cell phone, or wireless headphones where space is really at a premium, companies aren’t going to bother developing their own batteries, they’ll just pull 18650 cells (common in cordless tool batteries) or whatever other off the shelf lithium cells suit their use case.

    As long as you can get inside the device without braking parts (unfortunately common), you can replace them.

    The only thing to watch out for is what kind of additional circuitry is involved. Some cells have protection circuitry built in, some don’t. Some tool brands have smart batteries with dumb tools, others have dumb batteries with smart tools.



  • I have a GoalZero Yeti 1000x. I haven’t put it through the paces too much yet, but it seems to work well.

    It’s not LiFePO4, but I chose it cause it allows you to expand it with additional batteries as needed, and it technically supports integrating with your home panel (though I have no plans to do either thing yet).

    They try to be a bit more “plug and play”, so they use semi-proprietary jacks for their solar panel integration. They seem to count on the fact that most people are scared of electricity so they try to make it easy, but they definitely charge for the convenience (for the solar panels specifically).

    Their “high power port” that you can use for solar panel input is really just standard APP connectors in a vertical configuration instead of horizontal, so you can easily buy a cable that allows you to plug into it. They just try not to tell you that openly for liability, I’d assume.

    Other brands I’ve looked at previously include jackery and westinghouse. I might have bought one of those, instead, but I got a good deal on the goalzero.

    I think the biggest thing is that the battery cells themselves always have a finite life, so it’s most important to see if you can get something with a replaceable battery, or expandable capacity.



  • Based on plenty of reading I did lately, the Sofirn LT1 might fit the bill for you. I was just looking for a lantern, but my use case was more as a small light I could take backpacking, so I went for a flashlight with a diffuser.

    The LT1 is aluminum, waterproof, has replaceable batteries, can run on 1-4 batteries, runs on open source firmware, and it can be used as a power bank. It runs on 18650 lithium batteries, which are widely available. I’m no battery chemist, but lots of 18650 powered devices can run on cr123 batteries (which arent rechargeable), and those supposedly can hold a charge longer than the rechargeable batteries.

    If you want to avoid electronics altogether, the Coleman powerhouse might be the move. Obviously, you need to be careful with anything flammable indoors, and it generates a lot of heat, but it should last a lifetime (minus the mantles which are a wear item). A lantern that uses mantles is going to be an order of magnitude brighter than a lantern that uses a wick (which is still a wear item). Propane lanterns are similar if you prefer that to liquid gas.



  • My dream is to one day have a setup like this. Like others said, humidity and heat in a greenhouse are 2 big concerns. They make all kinds of automated systems for opening vents, etc.

    If your primary goal is growing in a contained area to keep pests away (vs. needing to really keep the space warm in winter or something), you best bet could be a hoop house. Basically you can drive rebar or fence posts into the ground, and then arch something (pvc pipes commonly) from one side of the space to the other. You’d then pull plastic sheathing overtop. Those are commonly used to get growing started in early spring and extend growing in the fall. When it’s warm enough, they basically roll up the material. You could do something similar but still have a structure of chicken wire or netting or something to keep animals away.

    If you actually want to keep the space warm to grow in the winter, you might want more permanent walls with better insulation, like double walled polycarbonate.

    Another thing to consider is water. If you have a greenhouse next to your house, you don’t want rain that falls on it to direct water to your house’s foundation.



  • I love the look of repurposed windows/doors for greenhouses, and I’ve even seen them advertised for that purpose at resale shops, but it’s really important to be careful about lead paint if you want to do that. Lead was the primary white pigment for a long time, and since windows/doors are often trimmed white, if they are older than 1978 (in the US, EU was 2003, though many member states had their own laws previously), it could be lead. Lead testers are fairly cheap if you want to go this route.




  • Hyperloops business model is to scoop up funds meant to develop technology to combat climate change. It’s Teslas business model, too. It definitely makes me skeptical right off the bat. It’s just a matter of if the airships are like electric vehicles (oversold climate harm reduction, but likely still a harm reduction), or if they are like hyperloops (complete scams that can be defeated with high school level math).