I’m not sure differentiation is necessary. Critter goes by, light comes on, nothing else moves, light goes off. Happens all the time with the (obnoxiously bright) motion lights my neighbors have.
So far as the sensor goes, have them networked. Activating one lights up the next light in either direction, and across the street. Then rolls with the movement. Part of my brain is thinking that bad actors would find a way to abuse this, though.
I just see a time limit system (with exceptions for those who are sick/unable to fully care for themselves)
Are we putting a time limit on processing who gets that designation? Because federal disability claims are a shitshow that take roughly six months just to get your first denial. And then can take years to go through appeals.
It’s all just different takes on who “deserves” to live and for how long.
Every tower fan I’ve ever owned has been a piece of junk. Which is only a sample size of two but that was enough to put me off of the form factor. Pedestal fans are cheaper and more reliable but take up much more floor space. Anything bought at a big box store is almost guaranteed to have plastic gearing in the oscillator which will eventually start to make noise. No clue if there are “premium” brands that aren’t overpriced bougie bait but I am all ears if anyone has suggestions.
All good, I appreciate it.
I did not turn off the water (calculated gamble), but I did drain the diverter/mixer before starting any work, and didn’t apply heat for a while after that. The piece that’s frozen is right at the front of the handle (pic is elsewhere in the thread), and the stem head is right behind it. It should have gotten to temp pretty quickly. I didn’t go too crazy since I wasn’t planning on disassembling anything until I had access to replacement parts, just gave it a few tugs.
Just finished putting on the new spout… and at its tightest, it points straight up ᕕ(ᐛ)ᕗ So I backed it off a half and am now waiting for the caulk to cure. I packed the tile hole with putty so the caulk is more for looks than anything. If the diverter valve sprays everywhere… guess I’m going knocking until someone says I can use their shower lol.
Edit: all is well. Or at least no worse than it was.
Heat did the trick for the spout, no dice on the diverter knob. Same with WD-40… there’s no place to really access the problem spot. It’s on there good.
Noted on big box vs dedicated supply store.
I did some more research and I think I’ll be able to be able to replace the washers and re-pack the compression nuts, and keep the original valves. But I’m not attempting that until I can get an early start on a day when the supply store is open for any running back and forth that may be needed. And even aside from that, none of the local big box stores have any packing nut material in stock.
Thank you again for the insight!
Well I got a look at the back side. There is a fitting, but it’s after the elbow. ᕕ(ᐛ)ᕗ So yeah, not gonna be torquing that at all lol. I borrowed a heat gun from a neighbor, and the spout twisted right off after a minute or so. And then a ton of mineral buildup went everywhere. Thanks slow leak! What a mess.
Unfortunately the shower diverter knob doesn’t seem to want to give, at all. Push comes to shove I can leave it in place, but I would really prefer at least giving things a thorough cleaning.
Thank you so much for the tips!
The two wrench thing makes perfect sense, and was something I had in mind. It’s just that the other side of the fitting is on the other side of the wall lol. Would need to be a 2-person job. Need to get a better look inside the access panel (and take down a second piece of drywall for reasons only known to the previous owner) to see if the spout pipe is fitted or soldered. If it’s soldered, what would be the tool for the job on the other side? I’m thinking vice grips so as not to accidentally over-tighten but I’m well aware that there’s a bunch of stuff I don’t know.
I appreciate the general tips as well. The ceiling is coming down in the basement soon so I’ll be able to get a look at the underside. The master shower leaks like crazy so there will definitely be work to do. Fingers crossed that the prior owners also stopped using it, and there’s no subfloor damage etc.
Well. That just threw cold water on my plans. Pun intended. But I’m still confused. Everything looks identical (aside from ornamentation) to something like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-3-Handle-Metal-Tub-Shower-Repair-Kit-For-Gerber/1092421
I should just be able to remove the old hardware: loosen the set screw on the flanges/caps, slide them off, unscrew the sleeves, then ratchet off the valve stems. The sticking point (literally) is the shower knob and bath spigot seem to be frozen/corroded in place.
ETA: yes this is in the US. Drywall under the tile, access panel behind… but I really shouldn’t need to do that. Everything I’ve read so far outside of this thread says it should be a simple swap job.
I am by no means an expert… I just kind of assumed everything was standardized, and new valves would be interchangeable.
Good call on the WD 40. I should be able to get behind the shower knob. For the spigot, it’s more of a spray and hope lol.
I’m not sure why I would need to remove the tiles? Unless it’s to have room for leverage to remove the shower knob.
Yeah, the main bath has an access panel (whereas the master shower stall does not). I’m not sure what I’m supposed to be looking for on that side. The spigot should just unscrew from the tub side, correct? And the shower knob is corroded in place.
There’s set screws on the flanges. I didn’t think to look for one under the spigot… but no dice. Likewise on the shower knob. Not even sure where one would be hiding. The hot and cold just have an easily accessible screw fixing them to the valves. I do appreciate the suggestion though.
Total tangent… it’s midnight here and I need to shower before bed. But part of me wants to turn off the water and start messing with stuff lol.
Edit: goddamn ADHD. Here’s the fixtures:
Hot and cold come right off. The shower won’t budge. Also, yuck.
Username checks out.